Sunday, May 02, 2010

Hangzhou- West Lake



April 21, Wednesday

Today I arranged a day trip to Hangzhou, a city of 4.5 million people about 100km southwest of Shanghai because it is the home of the storied West Lake which is reputed to be one of the most beautiful places in China.
We lucked out because even though rain was predicted for the whole day, we just had some high clouds without any rain......I suppose the fact that I took 2 umbrellas with me had no bearing on this...or did it?

It was a 2 1/2 hour ride each way on a small tour bus from Shanghai for me and the 6 other tourists. Returning we had to pass thru the tight security on the freeway leading into Shanghai as the 2010 Expo world's fair opening was one week away. Also we had a rest stop on the freeway which had the most beautiful urinal I have ever used; one stepped onto a steel grating and you peed onto a glass wall with water running down which flowed under your feet...behind the glass wall was a beautiful landscaped area of flowers and plants. Of course I did not have my camera with me there and would have felt silly returning to the bus for it and thus delaying our journey.

Here are some of the beautiful scenes we observed at West Lake:


On the way back to Shanghai we stopped at a green tea plantation:

Shanghai

April 18, Sunday

Shanghai is one of the most extraordinary cities in the world. It has a population of over 15 million people and a short but vibrant history. It was a small fishing village until after the Opium Wars it was established as one of the Treaty Ports in the mid 19th century. It grew under the influence of the British, French, American and German Concessions to become one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Asia by the 1930s. It was known as the Paris of the East with a wild reputation of parties, prostitutes, jazz until the Japanese took over in 1938. When the communists won the Civil War in 1949, Shanghai fell into a poor state as it was ignored by the Central Government. In the mid-1980s, the government decided to resurrect Shanghai and poured resources into it. It quickly regained its former status and now is one of the most vibrant, sophisticated cities in the world. It is the financial capital of China; it is the fashion capital of China; it probably has the finest creative architecture in the world.
The buildings on either shore of the Huangpu River demonstrate the architectural diversity.

There is the "Bund" which is the traditional European west riverfront with buildings from the Concession heyday of the late 19th to early 20th centuries:


The Bund at nite:

Along the east riverfront is Pudong:

at nite:
Two of the 5 tallest buildings in the world:

These buildings have video advertising constantly running:

And Pudong was nothing but swamps and farms before 1990 !!!!!! All this was built in the last 20 years!!

As you can see the city literally comes alive at nite with some of the most extraordinary lighting.

This is the view from my hotel room window:



I spent 5 days in Shanghai. The weather was not good as we had rain, fog and clouds 3-4 of those days. But at nite it is amazing.
I spent part of 2 rainy days in the French Concession. It is the area that has best maintained its character from the early part of the last century. It has lovely, quiet tree lined streets with old residences and villas that have been turned into restaurants and shops. I went to an interesting Yunnan restaurant that was wonderful and an Italian restaurant that had the best spaghetti bolognese that I have eaten.
The Concessions are an interesting part of Chinese history. The Qing Dynasty by the 19th Century was weak and corrupt so it was beaten handily in the Opium Wars and forced to sign the humiliating Treaty of Nanjing in 1842.  This allowed the Western powers to set up "concessions" in several coastal cities and cities in the interior on the Yangtze River (such as Wuhan). Hong Kong was also ceded to Great Britain in this Treaty.
The concessions established areas that were independent of Chinese rule and were subject to the laws of the foreign country; some also set up separate electric and sewage systems as well as police. An actual piece of the foreign country in the midst of a Chinese territory!